On Thursday, April 28th we left Chiloe (ironically the sun was shining) and flew about 1,000 km north to Valparaiso, which is located on the coast of central Chile. Inland by 90 minutes drive is Santiago which has one third of the entire population of Chile.
Valpariaso has been a commerce port since its inception, and was arguably one of the most important port cities on the west coast of South America until the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914. The Chilean navy has been based here for over two centuries, and they played a key part in the independence of Chile in 1818. Their most famous war hero, Arturo Prat, stands proud in a naval war memorial in the centre of town.
Today, the Chilean navy still has a presence with several naval ships in harbour, but it is mostly a big container port with the dull boom of containers being loaded and unloaded echoing around the bay.
It also has become a centre for street art - graffiti to you and me - and it is everywhere. Apparently owners of houses, shops and buildings now commission artists to put their messages up, and it can take a month in some cases to complete their work.
It certainly gives the area a bohemian feel, but it can also be a bit depressing with messy streets, sullen youngsters, and crazy traffic. We were cocooned away in the lovely Casa Higuaras, which is atop one of the 45 hills (Cerro Alegre) that make up Valparaiso. We visited a number of art galleries and museums while here, including the Museo Maritimo Nacional, where it was rumoured we might find mention of Commodore Anson’s visit to Juan Fernandez Island in 1741, but sadly that exhibition had been taken down in the last few years. But it was an interesting visit, and in a lovely, quiet part of the town.
“Dios nos guia. Lo que sucede, es siempre lo mejor que debe suceder.” - Arturo Prat
(God guide us. What happens is always the best thing to happen.)
Tomorrow we depart for San Pedro de Atacama, which is the driest place on earth, and a complete change of scenery.