Today we were touring Cusco (or Cuzco, or the more linguistically correct Q’osqo) at its 3,400 metre height above sea level with 500,000 inhabitants. We checked into our wonderful hotel, the Palacio Nazrenas, late last night and set off this morning with our guide, Efrain, to visit the ruins of Sacsayhauman (which sounds like “sexy woman” to the ear). This is the greatest of the Inca ruins near to Cusco and sits above the city like a fortress. Here some the bloodiest battles were fought with the invading Spaniards, and many of the stones of the phenomenal site were used in the construction in major buildings in the main town, including the Cathedral in Plaza de Armas. Thousands of Incas died in a battle in 1536 where their bodies were left and legend speaks of their remains as carrion for giant condors in the open fields. The barbarity of the Conquistadors does leave one feeling angry and ashamed at how the “superior” Europeans treated this race of amazing and intelligent human beings whose only fault was to be too trusting of their conquerors.
With that, we then walked down into the centre of Cusco. The Peruvians have very sensibly imposed building restrictions in the old town centre, such that buildings cannot be over two stories in height. We delighted in walking through the old narrow lanes, and seeing more and more evidence of the Inca remains that continue to be the foundations of this city. This includes the remarkable 12-sided stone (count them in my picture) that is part of the main wall of today’s Archbishop’s palace.
Can I also say that everywhere we went in Peru we have noticed three things: 1) how clean the streets and plazas are, 2) no one, and I mean no one except foreigners, smokes, and 3) you don’t get hassled in the street nearly as much as you expect, and in fact everyone is friendly, helpful and courteous as long as you are as well. Cusco as a city is a very welcoming place to visit, and I commend it to my blog readers. Oh, and stay at the Palacio Nazarenas hotel.
Tomorrow we are off to Guayaquil, Ecuador, which is the staging post for all travellers to: The Galapagos Islands. Which we will be cruising around for the next week from this Sunday. Stay tuned!