As we were preparing to leave Puerto Natales yesterday morning, the BBC World News weatherman cheerfully told us that Chile was now experiencing the most significant rainfall that they have had since September. It certainly has been “significant” for the last 36 hours!
We arose before daybreak yesterday to thick fog across the sound in front of our amazing hotel, The Singular. This was a meat packing plant until the 1970s, and an enterprising family has ploughed millions (and millions) into this place to turn it into a top notch destination hotel just outside Puerto Natales, and within an hour’s drive of the Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. The vastness of the interior is hard to describe, and they have kept a display of all the old steam equipment that was used to produce power, and the coolant to freeze the meat before it was shipped back to Europe.
Just after 1 pm we left Puerto Natales airport, and flew 90 minutes to Castro, on the island of Chiloe, which is still part of Patagonia. It’s the second largest island in South America, and has a huge amount of annual rainfall - 3,000 ml on the west coast of the island and 2,000 ml on the east coast. Unsurprisingly, we flew straight into a 48 deluge of rain that has been non-stop since we arrived. We checked into our hotel, the Tierra Chiloe, that has a beautiful setting, but down a half mile track of boneshaking gravel road. In fact most of the road system here is pretty shocking, and you have to think twice about going anywhere in a vehicle.
We decided to brave it this morning to get out for some fresh air and drove to see the Cascadas de Tocoihue. It was more impressive than what we expected which was a nice change. This afternoon we went into Dalcahue to see the local markets and church in the pouring rain - and both were closed. So I am now writing my blog before going down to the spa for a steam bath that is assuming the electricity doesn’t go off again like it has twice in the last 30 minutes.
Tomorrow the weather forecast is much better, and Douglas and I are off in a big helicopter to fly to Guamblin Island, where Commodore Anson was stationed after rounding Cape Horn and waiting for the rest of his fleet. We will be accompanied by two local historians, Cyril Christensen and Igancio Ibanez Echeverria, who are steeped in the history of the area. After visiting Guamblin, we will then overnight in a local hostelry before flying on to Isla Wager, which is the site of the infamous wreck of The Wager, one of Commodore Anson’s supply ships that lost its way and sailed into the cul-de-sac that is the Gulf de Peña, and their ship ended up on the rocks. How the crew survived, and their various methods of returning to England has fostered a number of books and is an entire spin-off series from Anson’s Voyage.
We live in hope and expectation that the weather will have improved by tomorrow morning, and we will get off the ground as planned. Stand by for my next instalment!